Heading to the beach or pool today, men are faced with an array of swimwear choices – from tiny briefs to long board shorts and smart tailored options. But this wasn’t always the case. Men’s swimwear has undergone a dramatic transformation over the last century and a half, evolving from cumbersome coverings dictated by modesty to the functional and fashionable garments we see today.
Covering Up in the Early Days
In the mid-to-late 19th century, public swimming was becoming more popular, but Victorian sensibilities demanded extreme modesty. Early men’s swimwear often resembled underwear or even full-body suits, typically made from heavy wool or flannel. These garments covered the torso, arms, and legs, sometimes down to the knees or ankles. Not only were they heavy and restrictive, but wool absorbed a significant amount of water, making the suits incredibly cumbersome and even dangerous for swimming. Functionality was secondary; the primary goal was to avoid exposing the body.
Function Over Form
The early 20th century saw a gradual shift. As swimming gained recognition as a legitimate sport and leisure activity, the need for more practical attire grew. Designs started to shed layers. The “tank suit,” resembling a sleeveless singlet attached to shorts, became common. While still offering considerable coverage, armholes became larger, and leg lengths crept up. Materials remained relatively heavy, but manufacturers like Jantzen began innovating.
A major turning point occurred in the 1930s. Social attitudes relaxed, and influenced by health trends promoting sun exposure, men began ditching the tops of their swimsuits. By the late 1930s and early 1940s, going bare-chested at the beach or pool became increasingly acceptable and eventually the norm. This era also saw the introduction of new materials like Lastex and eventually Nylon, allowing for more fitted, stretchy, and quicker-drying trunks. Swimwear started to become shorter and more athletic, focusing on freedom of movement.
Sun, Surf, and Style
The post-World War II era ushered in a new age of leisure and consumerism. Beach culture boomed, particularly in places like California. Men’s swimwear embraced brighter colors and bolder patterns, including the iconic Hawaiian prints often seen on matching shirt-and-trunk “cabana sets.” Styles diversified, ranging from fitted briefs to boxer-style trunks.
The 1960s and 1970s brought further innovation and divergence. The Australian brand Speedo popularized the minimalist, form-fitting brief, especially in competitive swimming, which eventually crossed over into recreational wear. Simultaneously, the burgeoning surf culture championed longer, looser “board shorts,” designed for comfort and durability on a surfboard, which gained mainstream popularity. New synthetic materials like Lycra (spandex) revolutionized swimwear, offering unprecedented stretch, snug fits, and quick-drying properties, influencing both briefs and shorter trunk styles. The era saw experimentation with psychedelic patterns and bold designs.
The Modern Mix
From the 1990s onwards, men’s swimwear fashion has been characterized by diversity. Baggy, knee-length board shorts dominated popular culture for a time, influenced by surf and skate trends. However, recent years have seen a resurgence of shorter styles. Today, men can choose from athletic briefs, classic square-cut trunks, mid-length shorts, long board shorts, and even refined, tailored swim shorts that look smart enough to wear to a beachside bar. Fabric technology continues to advance, offering UV protection, enhanced durability, and even faster drying times.
The journey of men’s swimwear mirrors broader changes in society – from strict formality and modesty towards greater freedom, athleticism, and self-expression. What began as a purely functional, often awkward garment is now a key element of summer fashion, blending performance with personal style.
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